A successful second day!

Hi everyone,

Well, I think I am doing ok and being pretty productive for only my second day here in Mysore.  I was hoping to get my Indian cell phone today.  I had stopped by yesterday afternoon and they wanted a rental agreement, a passport photo... all kinds of stuff.  I had the lady who runs this place write something up for me to prove I am staying here and stamp and sign it, got some pictures taken, and then went back this afternoon.  They didn't think it was good enough.  After asking around though I found a little place that sells sim cards (a little card you replace in your phone to pick up an Indian network) and he offered to do it with only a passport photo and a copy of my passport.  Unfortunately, I didn't have those things on me when I went by his shop so I will go back tomorrow and hopefully finally get it worked out.

Today I spent most of the afternoon exploring the market, walking way farther then I should have in the sun when I could have paid a rickshaw $1 to bring me where I needed to go, and trying to find suitable outfits for my time here.

I don't have access to a kitchen (and can't seem to find a restaurant within walking distance) so the first thing I do in the morning is get ready to go and then go find myself some breakfast.  I found a place I could sit down though it took me an hour to get anything because the first thing I pointed to they didn't have, then when the waiter asked me what I wanted, I told him to just bring me something, he didn't understand.  Finally half an hour later when I realized no food was coming I pointed to something else on the menu and that did come.  Another rice meal for $1.  Can't beat the price of lunch.  Dinner has been slightly more expensive at about $4-$5.  It is always more than I can eat though and includes some wonderful garlic naan and a beverage.  Tonight I tried something called "green pea masala" which was listed as a "non-spicy" dish.  I normally love spicy food, but I honestly couldn't get more than about 3 bites down.  Luckily they brought me a liter of water and a new version that was just mild enough for me to get down while finishing off that huge water bottle.  Still, it was fun, and tasty even if it was a bit too hot.

I went to the market this afternoon as well.  It is mostly filled with fruit, vegetables, powdered paint, and bangles.  I was actually looking for some clothing but I still had a good time wandering around even though I didn't find anything.  A boy even showed me how he makes incense for his little stall and gave me two to take home no charge.  What was crazy about it though is that he spoke a little Dutch!  He asked where I was from, normally I say it quickly and move on, if I pay any attention at all.  (This isn't me trying to be rude, but I have been warned about stopping to chat, sometimes this is taken as romantic interest even if you are only having small talk, I have been told even by Indians the best thing for me to do when people try to get me to talk (especially on the street) is to just keep moving.)  He had little notebooks with the names of about 10 different countries on the cover (including one from Holland) that his customers had filled with little comments, their addresses, and a list of what they had bought.  I was so impressed, the boy (he was 19) obviously took great pride in what he does, and was curious to learn about other people and places.  He knew enough Dutch to ask me my name, how old I was, tell me he makes beautiful presents...etc.  I will probably go back to his stall to buy some scented oils for gifts before I go home.  On the way out an Indian lady grabbed me and insisted on putting flowers through my hair.  This is a very common practice here, to weave them through your braid.  By the time she was done I no longer objected and she only asked for the equivalent of about 20 cents.  I am not going to haggle over that.

I also tried to look for another room last night and this afternoon.  My room now is nice, but a bit more expensive than I had hoped for.  I found a few hotels in my book and online that were described something like "family run with a smattering of colonial charm and internet access".  That was about half the price of where I am now and sounded promising so I went to check it out.  It was absolutely horrendous.  I really couldn't live there.  I could probably manage for a day or two, but definitely not working on my thesis and staying there for the next few months.  This place had no windows (imagine temps of around 90-110 or so with no air conditioning and no windows).  It had one bulb hanging from the ceiling that barely gave off any light, was filthy and I don't think they can even claim it had a real bathroom.  Where is the colonial charm lonely planet speaks of?!  Plus it seems that only very expensive hotels have internet access which is almost completely necessary for me.  I am beginning to think that even if this is slightly more than I was hoping for, it may be the best option for me to be doing research and live sanely in.

The best news of the day.... I got clothing!  I had almost run out of hope after looking for much of the afternoon and not being able to find pants anywhere.  Then surprisingly, the hotel I had dinner at had a small shop attached where a man was selling scarves (which I love and they drew me in in the first place) but he also had whole outfits.  Pretty nice ones too, hand embroidered and everything.  I got 2 complete outfits and 2 shirts for a little under  $50.  I had already gotten 2 others, so now I should be pretty set and all for about 60-70 bucks total.  That was my most desperate need because I have been dying walking around in jeans all day.

Plus, this heat wears me out!  I was about ready for a nap around 2-3pm.  I think it's a little worse because I am walking everywhere, there isn't air conditioning in most places, and I have to be completely covered.  My new Indian clothes should help with that though!

These first few updates will probably be way too long because I still feel the need to talk about every new little detail, I am sure I will get more succinct as time goes on, so don't worry.  Feel free to skip all the boring parts as well. :)

I am really looking forward to actually starting my research but some of these practical things needed to be taken care of first and I still need a "local supervisor".  I have a host institute, but the man I was originally in contact with is just too busy to supervise me, but he is going to try and set me up with someone else at the institute.  After that I will need to find a research assistant and make sure my interviews are ok and translated well for the research process.  

Love to all of you from India.